Winterizing your skin care routine

Although the weather has seem confused the past few months (70 degrees one day, 30 the next), the snow Philadelphia received this past Thanksgiving day seemed to hark the official start of cold, wintery weather. In addition to signaling the switching-over of your wardrobe, adding extra blankets to your bedding, and adjusting your thermostat, your skin care routine also needs to be revised to accommodate the change in weather.

Although the passing of summer diminishes some physical worries (frizz, overly oily skin, mosquito attacks), the onset of winter brings it's own skin trials and problems. The lack of humidity in the winter air means dryer everything; hair, skin, hands, eyes, etc. The extra dryness caused by indoor heating systems exacerbates the problem, regardless of what form of heating you use. Depending on the individual, this seasonal dryness can range from just a dry, tight feeling, to flaky, cracking, splitting skin, all the way to eczema (which occurs when the dry, cracked skin becomes inflamed). 

In order to combat the seasonal foes your skin faces, there are 10 quick tips to take note of to ensure beautiful skin despite the season:

 1. Nix the super-hot washing

Showering or bathing with hot water might feel good at the time, but the long term effects are anything but. For dry skin, the intense heat dries out the skin even more, causing it to itch and flake. For acne-prone skin, the heat causes the pores to swell shut, trapping unwanted dirt and debris inside. Although perhaps not as appealing, washing with warm water is the best way to keep every type of skin it's healthiest. (The plus side to using less hot water: you're inadvertently helping out the environment and the water bill.)

* If your skin has already gotten to the too-dry, itchy point, adding oatmeal or baking soda to a lukewarm bath can help soothe irritated skin. Liberal amounts of moisturizer will help, too.

2. Dial down the strength of your face wash

Your skin is naturally more hydrated and oily in the warm months, and similarly to a face lotion-- what worked for you in the summer most likely will not work the same in the cold months. As your skin seasonally becomes drier, your face wash needs to be adjusted accordingly so that you are not excessively drying your face out. For the months of November through April, I recommend the majority of my patients switch from their regular face wash to a "gentle" or "sensitive" version. If acne/blackheads are a problem, you can stagger this switch by using the stronger version at night before bed, and then using the gentler version in the morning. (This way, your skin stays clean, but will not be dry and flaky during the day.)

3. Give your skin more moisture!

It's frustrating that your perfect spring/summer face lotion cannot be used year-round, but for most people the light lotions favored in warm weather do not cut it for the colder months. With the cooler temperatures comes diminished moisture in the air, which is exacerbated by the dry air indoor heating pumps throughout your home. To keep your face moisturized, look for an oil-based lotion as opposed to water-based. Oil-based lotions are better for the winter as the oil creates a light protective layer on the skin that retains moisture better than a water-based formula can. (Hint: Many "night creams" are oil-based.)

When selecting an oil-based lotion for the face, make sure to be picky about the type of oil used. Avocado, mineral, primrose, or almond are all face safe, however "butter" (shea oil) or any type of vegetable shortening are too heavy for the face and can block pores. (Lotions containing "humectants" such as glycerine, sorbitol, and alpha-hydroxy acids are also good choices.)

4. Cut back on the abrasive skin care products

If your face is uncomfortably dry in the winter, avoid using harsh peels, masks, acne treatments, alcohol-based toners, or astringents, as all of these can strip needed oil and moisture from your skin. 

5. Slather on the sunscreen

The common skin-misconception is that if it's not hot outside, sun damage isn't a concern. However, the truth is that as long as the sun is in the sky, UVA rays are present and your skin is at risk. Protection from the sun is needed year-round!

Even if you are not spending much time outdoors, your skin is still susceptible to sun damage while you're outside walking from here to here, driving in a car, or even while you are in-doors near a window. You should be using an SPF of at least 30 daily, on your face and hands. Reapply frequently if you are going to be outdoors for a long time, especially if it's snowy. (The reflective surface multiplies the sun's damaging rays.)

6. Give your hands some TLC

The skin on your hands is thinner than on most parts of the body, has fewer oil glands, and is subject to frequent washings and water exposure. All of this adds up to the perfect recipe for chronic dry skin. (My mother's hands get so dry from all of the cooking she does, that her hands actually crack and bleed all winter long.) 

To prevent dry, itchy, red, cracky, possibly bloody hands this winter, wash with a moisturizing soap when needed, using warm water. (See tip #1.) Make sure to apply hand-lotion frequently (Ahava makes a geat one), and always wear gloves when outdoors to protect the delicate skin against the erosive cold air. 

7. Hook yourself up with a humidifier

Central heating systems (as well as space heaters) blast hot, dry air throughout our homes and offices, drying out your outsides and insides. Humidifiers are a wonderful defense against this as they replace the moisture in the air, which helps prevent your skin from drying out, and allows your throat, nasal passages, and eyes to remain properly moist. Placing several small humidifiers throughout your home can help re-disperse moisture back into the air, and allow your body to function closer to normal.

8. Avoid wet gloves and socks

This one probably seems like a no-brainer, as most sane people are not going out into the cold with the intention of getting wet. However, in a list of winter skin care tips it has to at least be mentioned that you should try to prevent (or minimize) this from occurring as much as possible. Wet material against your skin (socks or gloves) in the cold can irritate your skin and cause itching, cracking, sores, or even a flare-up of eczema... not to mention the fact that wet material can freeze, and increase your chance of frost-bite.

9. If needed, see an expert

It can be hard to navigate the hundreds of drugstore products on your own in order to address your individual/unique skin situations. If needed, going to an esthetician or dermatologist is a good investment because in one shot your skin-type be analyzed and discussed, your seasonal skin care routines can be reviewed and tweaked, and advice can be given about how to maintain your skin for the future. 

Going to a skin care specialist doesn't necessarily mean spending big bucks, most specialists are happy to recommend inexpensive skin care products that work just as well as high-end ones. The most important thing is how your skin reacts to what is put on it-- and guidance in that area can be priceless. 

10. Don't forget about your feet!

If foot dryness is a problem during the winter, try finding lotions that contain petroleum jelly or glycerine. Before applying moisturizer to your feet, it is good to exfoliate your feet while bathing so that there are no dead skin cells preventing the moisturizer from penetrating the skin as deeply as possible. (In order to prevent any slippery situations, you can put on a pair of old socks to give your feet some traction, and keep the lotion in place.)