Spring cleaning your make-up bag

For some reason unbeknownest to me, the Spring season has become infamous as the time of the year to properly clean-out everything. Along with the clothing/bedding switch and excessive cleaning that is most likely to be taking place at this time of year, it is also a great opportunity to tackle a more insidious, under-the-radar mess: your make-up drawer. 

Despite the fact that these products are constantly coming into contact with your face, most women hardly ever think about the cleanliness/shelf-life of these products. The following is a just quick check-list of things to consider as you go through beauty products: 

• Any lotion based make-up product with an SPF in it (such as a foundation) has an especially limited shelf-life. After about 6 months, the active sunscreen ingredients begin to break-down, so that although the make-up appears to work as usual, your skin is not receiving the same amount of sun protection that you intended. If you want to hold on to these products, please be sure to apply another form of sun protection first.
  
• Time to wash all make-up brushes-- including mascara wands. If the brushes (mascara wands included, if older than 3 months) have not been washed regularly, they are most likely bacteria receptacles. You can either use wash made specifically for make-up brushes, or a gentle shampoo, to cleanse the brushes. Once clean, allow to air-dry.
  
  
• Go through and inspect everything you use on a regular basis. If anything appears to have changed consistency, color, or smells strange-- toss it.
  
• During the normal wear-and-tear of being tossed into a drawer or bag, it is likely that loose debris from the multiple colors inside a compact will have shifted onto each other, and possibly coated the interior mirror. Use a tissue to clean the powders off the mirror, and use a butter-knife to gently scrape the discolored layers off to make your compact look like new again (and prevent bacteria from growing).
  
• For your collection of lipsticks and lip-gloss tubes, rubbing the surface with a paper-towel soaked in rubbing alcohol is a great way to clean and disinfect the areas that are coming into contact with your mouth.

Are there any make-up cleaning tips that you would like to share? If so, please do! We love hearing your feed-back! 

Taking the sting out of dry-skin lotions

It's one of the most annoying/frustrating skin-care scenarios to find yourself in: dry, cold winter air leaves you with severely chapped skin, and when you apply some moisturizing lotion in an attempt to soothe the irritated skin-- Owwwww!!! The lotion stings your skin more than the dryness did!

(You know the scene in the Home Alone when young Kevin shaves his face, and then innocently applies some after-shave like he always sees his Dad do? Yeah, the dry-skin-lotion-sting can be expressed sorta like that...)

Salvationless salves...

Unfortunately, this is an all too familiar situation during the winter when skin is extra-dry and extra-sensitive. The salve you were hoping would provide some dry skin relief instead becomes the enemy you can't wait to wash off your skin. 

Despite the fact that winters are often brutal in Philadelphia, my patients continuously report of this uncomfortable burning sensation year after year, from all sorts of skin moisturizers.  The very high-end varieties all to the way to the most inexpensive drug store variety can cause the dry skin burn, because the key to a lotion that actually soothes isn't in the price-- but (as you've probably guessed by now) the ingredients. 

When trying to soothe irritated, dry skin, you should first and utmost avoid products that are alcohol based, and secondly, avoid fragranced lotions.

Alcohol free

Alcohol is an ingredient often used for disinfection, and is a chemical that exacerbates skin dryness. (Dry skin also often has tiny, microscopic cuts and tears in it, which alcohol further stings and irritates.) When shopping for a potential skin care lotion, make sure to check the ingredients. Although a popular ingredient, do not buy any product that lists alcohol as a main ingredient. A lotion that is primarily made of a drying agent is both oxy-moronic, and useless in your attempt to give your skin the sensitive kind of moisture it needs. 

Smell free

Another precaution to take is avoiding moisturizers with added fragrances. Sure, they might smell good in their containers, but once applied the chemicals creating those pleasant smells can be the cause of non-pleasant skin-irritations. 

Products like Cetaphil and Lubriderm are fragrance-free and specifically formulated for sensitive skin that is prone to reacting to irritants.

 

 

Recommendations for the sensitive

Even though the stinging and burning is a temporary situation that causes no long-lasting damage, it is in the best interest of your skin to not further aggravate active irritations. 

By seeking out lotions that are specifically made for "sensitive skin", you can heal your upset skin and actually get some relief. (If you can find a lotion that contains anti-inflammatory ingredients such as chamomile or aloe, it's even better!) 

Lubriderm, Vaseline Intensive Care, Aveeno, and Burt's Beeswax all make nice lotions that hydrate and nurture your skin, and once you find something that works for you, feel free to apply as often as needed.

Lastly-- I have also heard complaints about sunscreens that sting and irritate, too. (Yes, sunscreen is needed even during the winter!) In order to maintain the level of sun protection you need without sacrificing your comfort, look for "physical" sunblocks that contain zinc or titanium dioxide. (SkinCeuticals makes my favorite.) Because these ingredients sit on top of the skin and aren't absorbed, they tend to be much less irritating.

Comfortable despite the cold...
Armed with this winter skin-care knowledge-- NO alcohol, NO fragrances, "physical" sunscreens only-- you are on the way to happy, hydrated, pain-free skin. (Sorry, can't do anything about the freezing-cold aspect!)

Winter-proofing your legs

"I do some of my best thinking in the bathroom...."

This lead-in left me unsure about where my patient was going with the conversation. 

She stood up and started to unbutton her pants, while I desperately hoped my face portrayed the professional stoicism I was trying to project.

 Uncommon way to bring up something very common

"So the other day, while I was --you know, in the bathroom-- I looked down at my legs, and saw all of these bumps everywhere." 

At this point, she unceremoniously dropped her pants to show me the exact bumps she was talking about. Sure enough, tiny flesh colored bumps covered her legs. 

When Winter and your wardrobe conspire against you...

 Although a mildly uncomfortable way to bring up her concern, the bumps covering her legs were actually quite normal.

 

As the weather gets colder, a bunch of things happen all at once. The indoor heat, outside cold air, and increased use of hot water (for bathing) saps all of your skin's natural moisture, leaving it extremely dry. Dry skin, encased in the popular constricting styles of today (skinny jeans, leggings, jeggings, tights, etc.), create the most ideal set of circumstances for in-grown hairs galore-- which is exactly what my straight-forward patient was suffering from. 

After shaving her legs, her seasonally dry skin blocked her pores, making it hard for her growing hair follicles to break through the skin. Her penchant for tight pants made it even harder for the hairs to grow properly, and break through the skin.

With no exit-way to allow for growth outside of the body, the hairs were instead forced to curl in on themselves and continue their growth underneath the skin. Hence, the plethora of in-growns. 

Year-round smoothness...

Because the mechanics of this problem are easily understood, this is one winter skin care concern that's easily preventable.

1. When bathing, begin by washing the problem areas with an anti-bacterial soap. I'm particularly partial to Dial, but use whichever brand you like. The anti-bacterial properties will help cut down on the existing infected hair follicles, while preventing additional in-growns from occurring.
   
2. Increase your exfoliating! Exfoliating your legs can benefit you in many ways. If you exfoliate before shaving, you may notice a better, more even shave. If you're not shaving, exfoliate anyway! Removing the build-up of dead, dry skin-cells will help get rid of existing in-grown hairs, and allow new hairs to grow easier.
   
3. When you get out of the shower, make sure to give yourself a quick application of moisturizer. Lubriderm and Vaseline both make nice, non-comedogenic (won't clog pores) lotions that will keep your skin hydrated and healthy.
   
4. Finally, allow your legs to "breathe" as much as possible. You can continue to wear tight bottoms, but try to at least wear loose pajamas, and perhaps looser fitting pants a couple days a week. 

It's speculated that Philadelphia is in for another winter like the one we had last year, but by following the above steps you can make sure to have beach-ready legs regardless of the snow onslaught just beyond your window... and perhaps I can be spared from future surprise pants-droppings.

Winterizing your skin care routine

Although the weather has seem confused the past few months (70 degrees one day, 30 the next), the snow Philadelphia received this past Thanksgiving day seemed to hark the official start of cold, wintery weather. In addition to signaling the switching-over of your wardrobe, adding extra blankets to your bedding, and adjusting your thermostat, your skin care routine also needs to be revised to accommodate the change in weather.

Although the passing of summer diminishes some physical worries (frizz, overly oily skin, mosquito attacks), the onset of winter brings it's own skin trials and problems. The lack of humidity in the winter air means dryer everything; hair, skin, hands, eyes, etc. The extra dryness caused by indoor heating systems exacerbates the problem, regardless of what form of heating you use. Depending on the individual, this seasonal dryness can range from just a dry, tight feeling, to flaky, cracking, splitting skin, all the way to eczema (which occurs when the dry, cracked skin becomes inflamed). 

In order to combat the seasonal foes your skin faces, there are 10 quick tips to take note of to ensure beautiful skin despite the season:

 1. Nix the super-hot washing

Showering or bathing with hot water might feel good at the time, but the long term effects are anything but. For dry skin, the intense heat dries out the skin even more, causing it to itch and flake. For acne-prone skin, the heat causes the pores to swell shut, trapping unwanted dirt and debris inside. Although perhaps not as appealing, washing with warm water is the best way to keep every type of skin it's healthiest. (The plus side to using less hot water: you're inadvertently helping out the environment and the water bill.)

* If your skin has already gotten to the too-dry, itchy point, adding oatmeal or baking soda to a lukewarm bath can help soothe irritated skin. Liberal amounts of moisturizer will help, too.

2. Dial down the strength of your face wash

Your skin is naturally more hydrated and oily in the warm months, and similarly to a face lotion-- what worked for you in the summer most likely will not work the same in the cold months. As your skin seasonally becomes drier, your face wash needs to be adjusted accordingly so that you are not excessively drying your face out. For the months of November through April, I recommend the majority of my patients switch from their regular face wash to a "gentle" or "sensitive" version. If acne/blackheads are a problem, you can stagger this switch by using the stronger version at night before bed, and then using the gentler version in the morning. (This way, your skin stays clean, but will not be dry and flaky during the day.)

3. Give your skin more moisture!

It's frustrating that your perfect spring/summer face lotion cannot be used year-round, but for most people the light lotions favored in warm weather do not cut it for the colder months. With the cooler temperatures comes diminished moisture in the air, which is exacerbated by the dry air indoor heating pumps throughout your home. To keep your face moisturized, look for an oil-based lotion as opposed to water-based. Oil-based lotions are better for the winter as the oil creates a light protective layer on the skin that retains moisture better than a water-based formula can. (Hint: Many "night creams" are oil-based.)

When selecting an oil-based lotion for the face, make sure to be picky about the type of oil used. Avocado, mineral, primrose, or almond are all face safe, however "butter" (shea oil) or any type of vegetable shortening are too heavy for the face and can block pores. (Lotions containing "humectants" such as glycerine, sorbitol, and alpha-hydroxy acids are also good choices.)

4. Cut back on the abrasive skin care products

If your face is uncomfortably dry in the winter, avoid using harsh peels, masks, acne treatments, alcohol-based toners, or astringents, as all of these can strip needed oil and moisture from your skin. 

5. Slather on the sunscreen

The common skin-misconception is that if it's not hot outside, sun damage isn't a concern. However, the truth is that as long as the sun is in the sky, UVA rays are present and your skin is at risk. Protection from the sun is needed year-round!

Even if you are not spending much time outdoors, your skin is still susceptible to sun damage while you're outside walking from here to here, driving in a car, or even while you are in-doors near a window. You should be using an SPF of at least 30 daily, on your face and hands. Reapply frequently if you are going to be outdoors for a long time, especially if it's snowy. (The reflective surface multiplies the sun's damaging rays.)

6. Give your hands some TLC

The skin on your hands is thinner than on most parts of the body, has fewer oil glands, and is subject to frequent washings and water exposure. All of this adds up to the perfect recipe for chronic dry skin. (My mother's hands get so dry from all of the cooking she does, that her hands actually crack and bleed all winter long.) 

To prevent dry, itchy, red, cracky, possibly bloody hands this winter, wash with a moisturizing soap when needed, using warm water. (See tip #1.) Make sure to apply hand-lotion frequently (Ahava makes a geat one), and always wear gloves when outdoors to protect the delicate skin against the erosive cold air. 

7. Hook yourself up with a humidifier

Central heating systems (as well as space heaters) blast hot, dry air throughout our homes and offices, drying out your outsides and insides. Humidifiers are a wonderful defense against this as they replace the moisture in the air, which helps prevent your skin from drying out, and allows your throat, nasal passages, and eyes to remain properly moist. Placing several small humidifiers throughout your home can help re-disperse moisture back into the air, and allow your body to function closer to normal.

8. Avoid wet gloves and socks

This one probably seems like a no-brainer, as most sane people are not going out into the cold with the intention of getting wet. However, in a list of winter skin care tips it has to at least be mentioned that you should try to prevent (or minimize) this from occurring as much as possible. Wet material against your skin (socks or gloves) in the cold can irritate your skin and cause itching, cracking, sores, or even a flare-up of eczema... not to mention the fact that wet material can freeze, and increase your chance of frost-bite.

9. If needed, see an expert

It can be hard to navigate the hundreds of drugstore products on your own in order to address your individual/unique skin situations. If needed, going to an esthetician or dermatologist is a good investment because in one shot your skin-type be analyzed and discussed, your seasonal skin care routines can be reviewed and tweaked, and advice can be given about how to maintain your skin for the future. 

Going to a skin care specialist doesn't necessarily mean spending big bucks, most specialists are happy to recommend inexpensive skin care products that work just as well as high-end ones. The most important thing is how your skin reacts to what is put on it-- and guidance in that area can be priceless. 

10. Don't forget about your feet!

If foot dryness is a problem during the winter, try finding lotions that contain petroleum jelly or glycerine. Before applying moisturizer to your feet, it is good to exfoliate your feet while bathing so that there are no dead skin cells preventing the moisturizer from penetrating the skin as deeply as possible. (In order to prevent any slippery situations, you can put on a pair of old socks to give your feet some traction, and keep the lotion in place.)