[insert drumroll here] And the best skincare products of 2011 are...

It always warms the bottom of my heart to see that the beauty experts of the world agree with my product selections. 

Year after year the products that win the "Best of ...." categories are usually the same ones that can be found lining our shelves-- and the validation this gives my product choice is priceless. 

This year is no exception, as both Obagi and SkinCeutical's skincare products won New Beauty's 2011 "Beauty Choice Awards", as picked by readers, editors, and experts. 

The lofty title of "The best OVERALL SKINCARE BRAND SOLD IN A DOCTOR'S OFFICE" was awarded to Obagi Medical Products.

Why it won: Obagi is a time-tested skincare line that combines the most powerful skin ingredients in an easy-to-follow numbered skin care system, which provides dramatic results. 

The experts like it because: "This is a great line that's been around for a long time. The brand continues to reinvent itself and utilizes clinical studies from dermatologists to show its benefits." says Nashville, TN dermatologist Michael Gold, MD. 

The editors like it because: "This supercharged skincare line works over time to really deliver dramatic results!"

We like it because: "They make certain products better than anyone else. Their gentle cleanser works well on every skin type, their Metrogel is better than anything else on the market, and I couldn't live without their hydroquinone-- it's used by every single one of my darker complected patients before a laser treatment." says Naomi Fenlin, co-owner of Cosmopolitan Skin Care Solutions.

And Obagi chalked up another win for it's "Nu-Derm Clear" product, under the category of "The best OVERALL DARK-SPOT ERASER" 

Why it won: Obagi Clear gets rid of dark spots on the skin, while also fighting the other signs of aging.

The reader likes it because: "I believe that Obagi Clear is a superior product because it repairs my damaged, aging skin."

The editors like it because: "Active ingredients in a strong concentration tackle common discoloration problems to achieve perfect, evenly toned skin."

We like it because: "Hydroquinone is a tricky chemical, that can provide great results when used properly. Obagi makes it the easiest for patients to safely and correctly use, with their 'Clear' product." 

 

SkinCeutical's line of anti-aging and antioxidant products won the Best Choice Award for "The best ANTI-AGING ANTIOXIDANT LINE."

Why it won: SkinCeuticals is always on the forefront of cutting-edge science and ingredients-- their products deliver what they promise. 

We like it because: Simply put, our skin looks and feels better after using these products.

2011 is looking good...

New Year, new products, new treatments... so many new things to talk about!

We just received our first shipment yesterday from EOS (stands for Evolution of Smooth) and after reading rave reviews about these adorably packaged, organic, good-for-your-skin products, I am so excited to be offering them to our patients. (Plus, I love how the cheerful packaging makes me smile every time I pass the display.)

More about EOS later though, because I'm also so excited about the new SkinCeutical chemical peels that are joining our inventory of magical skin care treatments!

Whether your skin concern is acne, aging, or unevenness... there is a customizable SkinCeuticals Chemical Peel for you. 

Each of the peels (aging: MicroPeel, acne: MicroPeel Plus, uneven skin: Pigment Balancing Masque) can be made as strong or as mild as needed for your specific skin type, and the MicroPeel is literally the coolest peel ever due to the cryogenic therapy involved. Yup, the last step of this peel includes a man-made snow-ball on a stick, which is used to administer the final step of exfoliation. (It is the coolest thing ever, it feels amazing, and leaves your skin feeling so soft!) 

More on this later, too...

The other thing that has me especially stoked right now, is kind of frustrating considering that it took this long to think of... For months and months we have been trying to teach our patients the best way to use Latisse (use a lipstick brush to apply it to the lashes). However, patients used to always call to say that despite ardent looking, a lidded lipstick brush seemed impossible to find... but no more. We finally found the perfect brush, and are currently stocking it so that all of our Latisse lovers can get the most lash for their buck. 

(The thicker plastic brush on the left is the applicator brush that is included in the Latisse kit, and the thinner brush to the right is the kind that we recommend.)

Next on my to-get list: the perfect eye-lash curler. After Latisse does it's magic and grows your lashes long, longer, longest, the best way to get the most dramatic effect is by curling the lashes and really allowing their length to show. 

I've been doing my homework, but am not fully sold on any one curler yet. Do you have any recommendations on the BEST eye-lash curler out there? 

Also, with resolutions at their year time high, I am told that this is the best time of year for self-tanning. My St. Tropez inventory is stocked and ready to go... will be interesting to see what happens.

Hope you had a wonderful holiday, can't wait to share the rest of 2011 with you. :)

Taking the sting out of dry-skin lotions

It's one of the most annoying/frustrating skin-care scenarios to find yourself in: dry, cold winter air leaves you with severely chapped skin, and when you apply some moisturizing lotion in an attempt to soothe the irritated skin-- Owwwww!!! The lotion stings your skin more than the dryness did!

(You know the scene in the Home Alone when young Kevin shaves his face, and then innocently applies some after-shave like he always sees his Dad do? Yeah, the dry-skin-lotion-sting can be expressed sorta like that...)

Salvationless salves...

Unfortunately, this is an all too familiar situation during the winter when skin is extra-dry and extra-sensitive. The salve you were hoping would provide some dry skin relief instead becomes the enemy you can't wait to wash off your skin. 

Despite the fact that winters are often brutal in Philadelphia, my patients continuously report of this uncomfortable burning sensation year after year, from all sorts of skin moisturizers.  The very high-end varieties all to the way to the most inexpensive drug store variety can cause the dry skin burn, because the key to a lotion that actually soothes isn't in the price-- but (as you've probably guessed by now) the ingredients. 

When trying to soothe irritated, dry skin, you should first and utmost avoid products that are alcohol based, and secondly, avoid fragranced lotions.

Alcohol free

Alcohol is an ingredient often used for disinfection, and is a chemical that exacerbates skin dryness. (Dry skin also often has tiny, microscopic cuts and tears in it, which alcohol further stings and irritates.) When shopping for a potential skin care lotion, make sure to check the ingredients. Although a popular ingredient, do not buy any product that lists alcohol as a main ingredient. A lotion that is primarily made of a drying agent is both oxy-moronic, and useless in your attempt to give your skin the sensitive kind of moisture it needs. 

Smell free

Another precaution to take is avoiding moisturizers with added fragrances. Sure, they might smell good in their containers, but once applied the chemicals creating those pleasant smells can be the cause of non-pleasant skin-irritations. 

Products like Cetaphil and Lubriderm are fragrance-free and specifically formulated for sensitive skin that is prone to reacting to irritants.

 

 

Recommendations for the sensitive

Even though the stinging and burning is a temporary situation that causes no long-lasting damage, it is in the best interest of your skin to not further aggravate active irritations. 

By seeking out lotions that are specifically made for "sensitive skin", you can heal your upset skin and actually get some relief. (If you can find a lotion that contains anti-inflammatory ingredients such as chamomile or aloe, it's even better!) 

Lubriderm, Vaseline Intensive Care, Aveeno, and Burt's Beeswax all make nice lotions that hydrate and nurture your skin, and once you find something that works for you, feel free to apply as often as needed.

Lastly-- I have also heard complaints about sunscreens that sting and irritate, too. (Yes, sunscreen is needed even during the winter!) In order to maintain the level of sun protection you need without sacrificing your comfort, look for "physical" sunblocks that contain zinc or titanium dioxide. (SkinCeuticals makes my favorite.) Because these ingredients sit on top of the skin and aren't absorbed, they tend to be much less irritating.

Comfortable despite the cold...
Armed with this winter skin-care knowledge-- NO alcohol, NO fragrances, "physical" sunscreens only-- you are on the way to happy, hydrated, pain-free skin. (Sorry, can't do anything about the freezing-cold aspect!)

Snowball in the face: New SkinCeuticals Anti-Aging Treatment

The picture at left is of some sort of snow-ball cake, en route to be decorated. Nothing about a kitschy winter-themed dessert is even remotely skin related... and yet, it was the closest image I could find to what I imagine is going to be coming up during our upcoming SkinCeutical chemical peel training day. 

Yup, a snowball on a stick.

The shopping list of things we needed in order to facilitate our upcoming day of Chemical Peel training was both intimidating and formidable. Slowly working our way through the seemingly never-ending list (our Blade Handle and Blade Remover arrived just today, if you were wondering) has been a time-consuming and somewhat humorous task. Although it was a bit embarrassing for a complete chemistry-ignoramus to call the local gas company and describe why I needed a heavy duty CO2 tank for a Medical Spa, I cannot wait to see how everything comes together in action.

Since we haven't gone through our training yet, and no videos of this peel are available on YouTube, my excitement is based wholly off my imagination in conjunction with the description given by our SkinC rep...

For the anti-aging SkinCeuticals "MicroPeel", the CO2 comes into play with the seldom-used-despite-it's-awesome-benefits Cryogenic Therapy. "Snowballs" are formed with the frozen CO2, and then attached  to Popsicle sticks. They are wrapped in gauze, dipped in Glycolic acid and then rubbed all over the face. The extremely low temperature is supposed to help prevent redness and any inflammation, while the freezing temperature sanitizes the skin while helping exfoliate blackheads, ingrown hairs, and clogged pores. (There is derma-planing involved in this treatment too.) The end result is smoother, clearer, brighter, tighter skin, with a reduction in fine lines, wrinkles, and brown spots, with NO down-time.

Literally, these peels are going to be so cool, and I cannot wait to start doing them. Making snow-ball popsicles with a CO2 tank, wearing my Doctor's coat and safety glasses, I think I will look like a mad scientist version of an Aesthetician... and I simply cannot wait. :)

New skin care "a-peel" from SkinCeuticals

With people like Oprah, Kim K., J.Lo, and Gwynnie singing their praises + a slew of beauty awards, it is easy to say that SkinCeuticals has cultivated a highly respectable name for themselves in the skin-care industry. 

And for a good reason: their products work. 

From non-pore clogging SPF 50 sunscreens, to antioxidants that are proven to prevent skin cancer, to under-eye creams that people swear work better than products 5x more expensive, SkinCeuticals has covered all of the skin-care needs beautifully.

While they are mostly known for their at-home products, that is-- skin care that people can administer to themselves; such as face wash, moisturizer, and sunscreen-- they have recently developed a line of medical grade Chemical Peels that can only be received in medical offices. With a peel for anti-aging, acne, or hyperpigmentation; they have created a quick, in-office treatment that can benefit a wide variety of people. 

Having only just signed-up to be a part of this Chemical Peel roll-out, everyday boxes and boxes from SkinCeuticals  are arriving on my door-step. Some of the included pieces are puzzling for now (lug nuts? Other misc hardware pieces?), and some are intimidating (razor blades for derma-planing), and some just look comical amongst my skin care stock (mixing bowls and thermoses).

Out of the three medical grade peels, we are currently only doing one (Pigment Balancing Masque) and need a professional SkinCeuticals instructor to come and educate us on the two new ones (Micropeel and Micropeel Plus). 

On the upcoming SkinCeuticals Chemical Peel menu, specifically:

Pigment Balancing Masque (We've been doing these already for about the past year, and I can't keep the product in stock, my patients--especially African Americans-- LOVE the results from this!)

• Improves uneven skin tone and helps get rid of sun damage, brown spots, and other forms of hyperpigmentation
• This peel is a one step process that uses a very strong chemical exfoliation, and  high-performance skin brightening agents

Micropeel (We have never done these before, and I am so excited to learn how! Before I can start though, a professional SkinCeuticals instructor has to come and spend a whole day here, going over all the ins-and-outs of cryogenics and derma-planing.)

• Helps reduce the primary signs of aging, including fine line and wrinkles, dullness, and visible skin imperfections.
• This peel involves three steps, and includes manual exfoliation, chemical exfoliation, and cryogenic therapy

Micropeel Plus (Again, need the instructor to teach this to me, but I am intrigued that this chemical peel is only one step, and yet is considered an advancement to the plain old "Micropeel"?)

• Helps reduce acne and keeps problematic skin clear of breakouts.
• This peel consists of a one-step chemical exfoliation with salicylic acid procedure

As I learn more, I will certainly keep you posted. In the meantime, it's fun opening my supply closets and daydreaming about all of the miraculous things I will soon be able to add to my skin perfecting repertoire. :)

The ONLY 5 skin care tips you need to know

I see it everyday... people who desperately want clear, healthy skin, and yet don't know the simplest ways to ensure achieving it. 

It's easy to be over-whelmed or confused, as different sources constantly relay different information, and it's hard to know what to believe versus what to dismiss.

Below are the simplified rules of what you need to do in order to give yourself the healthiest skin possible. (Some of which you have probably heard, others you may have not.) 

By just taking a few extra moments to read the list below, you can help prevent years' worth of premature aging, wrinkles, brown spots, pimples, acne scars, and all of the other dreaded skin maladies that constantly plague my patients:

1. Always wash your face before bed! 

Just as your body needs sleep to renew and refresh itself, so does your skin. Your skin uses this downtime to repair itself from the assualts it experienced over the course of the day, however the skin cannot properly rejuvenate itself if it's still covered in a day's worth of grime, pollution, oil, and dead skin cells.

"Sleeping with dirt, oil, and makeup on causes acne and enlarged pores," says Audrey Kunin, MD, an associate clinical instructor of dermatology at the University of Kansas School of Medicine.

Realistically, it only takes a few minutes to wash your face, but if you absolutely cannot muster the energy to do so-- at least keep some face wipes in your nightstand so that some of the gunk can be removed from your face at night.

2. SPF should be used everyday, regardless of season!

I wish I had a nickel for every-time I've heard, "I don't need sunscreen, it's winter!" 

Granted, most people aren't lying out and sunning themselves when the temperature drops, but just because you're not wearing a bathing suit doesn't mean that the sun's rays are any less damaging. 

UVA rays are present all year long, and they happen to be the primary culprit behind premature aging. Exposure happens constantly, whether you're aware of it or not-- walking, driving, even if you're indoors the UVA rays can affect your skin through windows. (If you can feel the heat of the sun on your skin through a window, UVA damage is occurring.) 

The #1 way to guard against this constant sun damage, and keep skin looking youthful for as long as possible, is to use a sunscreen with an SPF 30 that's labeled broad-spectrum, EVERYDAY! For the best protection, choose one that contains either avobenzone, Helioplex, Mexoryl, titanium dioxide, or zinc oxide.(Everyone at my office is currently in LOVE with SkinCeuticals new SPF 50.)

3. You don't need expensive skin care products

Many La Mer (a skin cream that costs $230 for 2 oz.) devotees come to us, seeking help for their various skin problems. After reviewing their recommended treatment plans, they are astounded to hear the prices of the skin care products they might want to use following a treatment. Once it's all tabulated, it comes out to something like a year's worth of great skin care products (face wash, moisturizer, sunscreen, etc.) can be purchased for about the same cost of one 2oz. jar of La Mer. After the make the switch, they cannot stop raving about how good the less expensive products are... and how good it feels to be saving that $230!  

Lesson to be learned: you don't need to believe all the hype-- just because it's more expensive does not make it automatically better. To that affect, you  should perfectly confident shopping for good skin care products at the drugstore! Studies show that mass products are as effective as (and sometimes more so than) the super-expensive lines.

"Look for active ingredients, not fancy labels," says David E. Bank, MD, an associate professor of dermatology at Columbia University/Presbyterian Hospital. And he's 100% right-- it's what is in the product that determines it's effectiveness, not it's price-tag or packaging. The most effective ingredients to look for should include retinoids, AHAs, peptides, vitamin C, and hydrators such as hyaluronic acid.

4. Results may not occur immediately

In today's age where the Internet has made it so that we can access anything exactly when we want it, our culture has come to be extremely result driven, and patience can be hard to come by.

Keep in mind that when you are trying something new, or incorporating an additional component to your skin care routine, it can take at least 8 weeks to see the results of many ingredients. 

Give your skin care products time to deliver their benefits before discounting their effectiveness.

5. There are options even for the most unique skin types

A lot of times patients will be reluctant to try new products or treatments for fear of their skin being too ___________________ (fill in the blank; sensitive, dry, oily, etc.) to tolerate whatever is being recommended. However, with beauty technology advancing as rapidly as it is, these days there is a solution for any type of skin. 

For example, something as common as "exfoliating" is a necessary part of maintaining healthy and clear skin, that a lot of people are hesitant about. A lot of sensitive-skin types are extremely wary of exfoliating due to unpleasant past experiences. For those with this type of skin, the more aggressive scrubs should definitely be skipped so as to avoid unwanted side-affects, and instead a gentle chemical exfoliator or cleansing beads could be used. (There are multiple varieties of both.) 

It is a good idea to always keep in mind your skin's unique attributes, and choose your options accordingly.

DRY skin vs. DEHYDRATED skin

Almost like a garden, your face needs constant tending...

Facial skin needs almost all the same maintenance required for growing any kind of plant; you have to make sure it gets the proper nutrients, receives controlled exposure to the sun*, unwanted pests need to be kept at bay**, and in some cases... frequent clippings may be necessary. Bumt, most importantly of all, in order to thrive and look it's best, adequate hydration is a MUST.

This is especially true as the weather starts to noticeably change from summer to fall, to winter. You may already be noticing that your skin feels dryer and tighter than it did just a few weeks ago? 

It's this time of year when skin regimens have to be updated in order to accomodate the changing seasons-- and the biggest change from summer skin care to winter skin care is the needed addition of extra moisture. 

During the summer months there is typically a lot moisture in the air (humidity), and the heat encourages your oil glands to be extra active, both factors providing natural hydration for your skin. However, as the temperature starts to cool down and the humidity dissipates, you are left with a dryer, tighter feeling face.

Dry skin not only feels uncomfortable, it also takes a toll on your appearance. Dry skin tends to look dry and dull, which in turn makes lines and wrinkles more noticeable. Dry skin is also more problematic for makeup application,  as the skin's dryness can cause makeup to crease and emphasize what you were trying to conceal.

However, there is a difference between "dry skin" and "dehydrated skin" despite the fact that the two terms are often used interchangeably. 

Dry skin is actually a condition where your skin is lacking essential oils and moisture. This can be caused by the absence or malfunction of sweat or oil-producing glands.

Dehydrated skin is skin that has been stripped of too much moisture, which can occur from improper diet, sun, wind, heat, certain medications, and misused skin products-- in addition to not drinking enough water.

Although they are innately different from each other, both dry skin and dehydrated skin can be remedied in similar ways:

Drink plenty of water: Make sure you get at least 8 glasses a day, and by avoiding diuretics such as alcohol and caffeine, you can prevent additional dehydration from occurring within.

Exfoliating often : No matter how much extra moisture you put onto your skin, your moisturizer cannot penetrate through dead skin cells. Exfoliating regularly unblocks your pores, which allows your skin products to penetrate deeper, and work better. 

Protection: As should always be the finishing touch with any good skin care routine, make sure to always protect the skin with a sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher. (Kill two birds with one stone by using a moisture-rich, oil free sunscreen, such as SkinCeuticals Ultimate Defense SPF 30)

With due diligence, you can easily make sure your face suffers from neither dryness nor dehydration, regardless of the season.

* In the case of skin, the only sun exposure should be protected exposure!
** Pimples, black-heads, white-heads, etc...